I am creating what is called a cyberdeck using the raspberry pi compute module 5 paired with the wisecoco 10.1 inch amoled display.
I am using this particular screen because it's resolution is 2560 by 1600, making it ideal for working with more than one window at a time.
Among the different implementations of this particular amoled display, The Wisecoco screen has by far the best case for mounting to an arm, because it is machined from a single slab of aluminum, and it is tapped for the 3 mm screws on a standard 75 mm pattern. It is also tapped with the 2.5 mm holes to mount any of the pi family directly on the back of the screen. Perhaps best yet, for setting the screen into the lid of a plastic case, the ports are set back a few cm from the edge of the screen, leaving ample room for the power and data cables to be hidden behind the screen inside of the lid.
I got to look into this screen very deeply, because when i mounted it into the lid of a pelican case, it fell apart the first time the case was closed. The glass did not break, but it seems that something was damaged, because the screen quit lighting up. I dumped the glass out again, and tried resetting the delicate backlight cable that had taken the weight of the falling glass. I tried a lot of times, actually, and finally got the screen working for a few days more.
But, eventually it quit entirely again, and I notified Wisecoco about the incident. I told them my screen was lacking either two sided tape or glue on the machined surfaces where the back of the screen rests. Also, i had found a loose screw inside, besides the 3 that were holding on the display board.
Luckily, Wisecoco is one of those companies that care a lot about quality, and they very quickly shipped me another screen with all the useful cables.
The photo is of my home-made triangular desk after receiving the replacement screen, and mounting it to the arm next to my 27 inch oled screen.
As far as machines that i have tested this screen with, I first tried the Lattepanda Mu module mounted to the official light carrier board. It worked perfectly, and provided beautiful gaming when i added a low profile rtx 4060 to the pci-e port of the light carrier board. The amoled screen is only a 60 hz screen, but that works well with the reduced performance of the 4060 when it's 8 lanes of pci 4 are bottle-necked through the 4 pins of pci 3 found on the Mu.
The Mu [without the low profile gpu] fits well in the low volume case that is exactly the size of the 10.1 inch screen. There is ample room for a large dc/dc voltage converter, a powered usb-3 hub, and some m.2 drives in enclosures.
I don't need that much power in my portable cyberdeck, so I next tested the raspberry pi 5 with wifi and 4 gigs of ram. This works flawless out of the box. The pi 5 has enough power to run both 2k screens at the same time, as well as a smaller dci screen that is driven directly from the pi5.
The pi5 lacks a headphone jack, but the sound comes through the hdmi cable along with the video, and the two speakers on the screen are loud enough if you boost the sound to 120 %. I created an icon on the desktop that boosts the audio to 120% with a single click.
I tried the wisecoco screen with the smaller pi zero 2w, but it did not work out of the box. The zero can not output larger than a 1080 pixel tall signal, and the wisecoco screen does not automatically downscale to 1080. I think that it would be fairly easy to get the zero configured manually to output 1280 by 800 pixels, but this screen is too nice to downscale it like that.
Currently, I am testing the Raspberry pi computer module 5 with 8 gigs of memory and wifi. It also works flawlessly with the high resolution screen, and the module allows for some nice improvements over the pi5 computer. The module has an external wifi antenae, so it gets a stronger signal. Also, using the waveshare nano b carrier board, I get a headphone jack as well as the ability to boot from a m.2 card.
I got very excited poking around in the aluminum housing of the screen, because it is ideal for making a version where the pi 5 compute module mounts directly to the display board. The maker is clearly able to machine to very small tolerances inside the case, so it would be possible to cool the cm5 with the aluminum of the whole case. A little thickness needs to be added, and, the ports would no longer be for signal input and power. They would be the io ports of the cm5, and 6 - 24 volts for charging a thin li polymer battery. And, there would be a place to attach several external antenae, in case the cm5 has wifi, or a cell module or software defined radio is added.
the current display board is only about half size, so increasing it to full size should provide ample room for mounting the cm5, and for the charging system, and mounting for one or two m.2 drives.
I have checked very carefully, and there is no general purpose tablet kit for the cm5 that is silent, high resolution, and built from a single slab of metal.
The cm5 is the correct module to base a long term tablet product on, because it has remained port compliant with the cm4, and will likely be compliant again with the cm6 in some years. Raspberry pi has amazing long term product availability as well as software support for every pi made since the first model.
I have posted this early account of the testing for my cyberdeck, because Wisecoco reached out to me, saying that another customer can not get their screen to work with a pi5. I have had the opposite experience. Aside from the surprise with the missing 2 sided tape, this screen has worked out of box as a second screen for my gaming system. It is perfect for monitoring temperatures and downloads while gaming on the faster and larger screen. I could rotate the screen, and make it my main screen so that the i could use my mouse or touch to navigate.
It worked perfectly with each model of single board computer, except the pi zero 2w which lacks the compute to run the screen. The sound is adequate, about like a cheap laptop. It is the most readable screen that I have ever seen, and is just perfect for reading text or watching movies in bed. If i take my glasses off, i can focus to about 6 inches, and this screen becomes something like virtual reality. The screen has 5 levels of brightness, accessed by long presses on the single button. short presses turn the screen on and off.
Notes on using the 10 inch amoled screen as a second screen:
O yea, this thing is perfect for a second screen. I have noticed that 2 27 inch screens makes such a wide view that the neck becomes tired looking back and forth. In the above image, the 27 inch screen is the 360 hz gaming oled from Dell. The 10 inch screen actually presents a few hundred more pixels in hight than the 27 inch screen, even though it is a little greater than 1/3 the diagonal measure. So, this screen makes an image or a video pop more than i have even seen before. There is no way at all to see a pixel, or to notice that you are viewing a screen instead of a 2 dimensional view of a subject.
In fact, I now watch the news on the 10 inch screen in the morning, even though the 27 inch is right beside it. the Pi cm5 is already running, And it looks better if anything. A warning about oled screens: dont try one until you are ready to change over. After you use an oled, a movie or a photo on even the best of the old backlit screens will no longer look real. it will look like the old rounded tube tvs looked after we already got used to flat screens. So, after you get a large oled that rivals your samsung or iphone in quality, all of your screens will need to be changed. It could cost thousands of dollars!
The screen uses about 10 watts of 5 volt dc current, and i have found that the standard 12 v to 24 v input and 5 volt output buck converter [about 8 dollars on amazon] works best. I have rigged a switch for the converter, so that i can shut the screen off very easily.
In this shot, the 10 inch screen is mounted via a quick release to a super simple aluminum arm that was 25 dollars on amazon. I have found that the post of the arm is great for attaching switches, m.2 enclosures, a usb 3 dock, and a raspberry pi cm5 in the smallest possible configuration.
The cm5 is attached to the Waveshare nano - b carrier board, which is the same size as the module.
A huge heat sink is attached to the processor, so that no fan is needed. It may be possible to stick the processor right to a the anodized aluminum of the arm. I have done that with a m.2 2230 enclosure. It used to get really hot, but now, it heats the whole arm.
When i travel, i will rig the 10 inch screen to the lid of a box that is exactly the same size, forming a sort of laptop screen for any sbc that i place in the bottom part of the box. The sbc can run on a power brick, as that is cheaper than setting up a battery and a charger. I am debating between trying to mount the little keyboard that also fits in the bottom of the box, or should i install a second screen? having 2 working touch screens would be nice, where you could work on different documents, or use the lower screen for a keyboard, and the upper for the website or document. Raspberry pi 5 handles screens super fluidly, so you could turn either of the 2 screens off,
or use them in conjunction with additional external screens. It is easy to add 2 hdmi screens which each need a data cable, as well as a power/touch cable, and 2 dci screens that each receive power and signal and touch from a dedicated dci cable.
In summary, this Wiscoco 10.1 inch amoled display is the single best made medium sized screen for both desktop use and for projects. I dream of a tablet kit based on the Pi CM5. Then, there would just be a single slab of metal attached to the stand, with a single power wire leading to it.
I would be very willing to help in the design and testing of such a tablet. I am a retired engineer, and need fun projects to do!